Convert to black and white in Lightroom and use Lightroom’s Split Tone feature for a cool look.RAW conversion and basic adjustments in Lightroom, channel swap in Photoshop or a substitute like GIMP or Pixelmator, import back into Lightroom for final touchups.Convert to black and white in Lightroom, and possibly use a plugin like NIK Silver Efex Pro.So to sum it up, the 3 ways I’ve found to give my infrared photos variety are: The sunlight is actually shining through the plum enough that you can see the darker area where the pit is. I ran into the back yard and shot this photo when I saw the evening sun shining through the leaves of a wild plum tree. There are saturation controls for each color, and a balance control between them. This allows me to assign one color to shadows (in this case, blue) and another to highlights (muted yellow in the photo above). Wild Plum – Split Toned IRĪnother way I process infrared photos is to convert to black and white, then use Lightroom’s “Split Tone” feature.
PIXELMATOR WHITE BALANCE PRO
This should cause a very dramatic change to your IR photo, changing the sky from red/orange/magenta (depending on white balance setting) to blue.īack in Lightroom I use NIK Color Efex Pro and NIK Dfine to get more shadow detail, and then reduce the noise from my old Canon EOS 10D sensor. Then the blue channel: Red from zero to 100, and Blue 100 to zero. Next, in Pixelmator/Photoshop, I use the Channels function to adjust the red channel this way: Red from 100 to zero, Blue from zero to 100. So I open the RAW file and do basic adjustments in Lightroom first. In my opinion, ACR (Adobe Camera RAW) which Lightroom and Photoshop use, is much better.
PIXELMATOR WHITE BALANCE MAC
Pixelmator uses the built-in Mac OS-X RAW converter. I export a TIFF file to Pixelmator (cheap Photoshop substitute) after basic contrast and sharpening in Lightroom. One trick to getting more natural color infrared images is to do a “channel swap” in Photoshop.
Future post to come with photos taken at 830nm. I just ordered an 830nm filter, which cuts out all visible light for a purely infrared photo and a more dramatic, other-worldly look. This still allows some visible light to show in the photos, so it makes color infrared easier to work with (see below).
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The filter installed inside the camera is 720nm, meaning it cuts light wavelengths below this range. There’s a reason it’s called “infra-RED”! So converting to black & white, and just managing textures and tones, is the easiest, quickest way to process an infrared RAW file.
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including basics like exposure and white balance through to a wheel-based color. The original, RAW infrared files are extremely reddish/magenta. Pixelmator Photo is now available for the iPhone, bringing some high-end image editing tools to your pocket. The above photo was converted to black and white in Lightroom. I’ve found three ways to process infrared photos from my converted dSLR.
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